Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
